Monday, January 31, 2011

WHAT'S SO GREAT ABOUT A NO NAME?


The menu’s simplicity puts the emphasis on the quality of the seafood and No Name has banked on that formula for almost 100 years. With an unchanging, bare-bones approach to seafood the one-page blue paper menus can be off-putting for diners drawn in  by No Name’s considerable reputation. The alarmingly basic dining room may have been contemporary in 1973, but now it lacks the elegance that superficial foodies enjoy in chic bistros downtown. Guests are given a plastic pitcher of tap water and a stack of Dixie cups to wet their whistles. Libations include beer and wine—the fact that you can choose between red and white is a step in the right direction, but your options end there.
All is redeemed by the food. You remember what real seafood looks like when you scarf marble-sized scallops that make the hockey pucks at downtown restaurants look circus fake. The crust fried onto the marquee New England delicacies is a bready flake that accents the mollusks it covers while preserving their flavors. Most everything is served with an abundance of excellent fries and if you start with a cup of seafood chowder you will waddle away from the table with a first-rate Boston meal for about 20 bucks. This Boston institution is a favorite of locals and is often recommended by seaport area hotel concierges.
15 Fish Pier Street West
South Boston, MA
617-338-7539 
Open Monday through Sunday
11AM until 10PM

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